ENCYCLOPEDIA

OF

NEEDLEWORK

By
Thérèse de Dillmont

 

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Crochet Work - IX

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Crochet work, so called from the hook, French croche or croc, with which it is done, is not only one of the easiest but in comparison with the cost and labour, one of the most effective kinds of fancy-work. It is also one of the most useful, as it can be applied to the domestic requirements of every-day life, to wearing apparel, house-linen and upholstery; and we are sure that the patterns contained in this chapter, which have in addition to their other merits that of novelty, will meet with a favorable reception.

Hooks, or needles, as they are generally called, made of wood, bone or tortoise-shell are used for all the heavier kinds of crochet work in thick wool or cotton, and steel ones for the finer kinds. The Tunisian crochet is done with a long straight hook, which is made all in one piece. The points should be well polished inside and not too sharp, the backs slightly curved, and the handles, whether of bone, steel or wood, so light as not to tire the hand. Those represented here, we consider the best, as regards shape. As it is most essential that the needle should be suited to the cotton in size, we subjoin a comparative table of the numbers of the D.M.C threads and cottons and of the different needles.

Explanation of the signs *.—In crochet, as in knitting, you frequently have to repeat the same series of stitches. Such repetitions will be indicated, by the signs *, **, ***, etc., as the case may be.

Crochet stitches.—In point of fact, there is only one, because all crochet work consists of loops made by means of the hook or needle, and connected together by being drawn the one through the other.

Crochet work may however, be divided into two kinds, German crochet, and Victoria or Tunisian crochet; the latter is known also under the name of tricot-crochet.

In German crochet there are eight different kinds of stitches: (1) chain stitch, (2) single stitch, (3) plain stitch, (4) treble stitch, (5) knot stitch, (6) bullion stitch, (7) cluster or scale stitch, (8) double stitch.

The rows are worked, according to the kind of stitch, either to and fro, or all from one end. In the former case, the work has to be turned at the end of each row, and the subsequent row begun with 1, 2 or 3 chain stitches to prevent the contraction of the outside edge.

When the rows are all worked one way, the thread must be fastened on afresh each time, which is done by putting the needle into the first chain stitch of the preceding row, drawing the thread through it so as to form a loop, and making one or more chain stitches according to the height required.

At the end of each row, cut the thread and draw the end through the last loop; in this manner all crochet work is finished off. Some crochet workers make a few extra chain stitches with the ends of the thread at the beginning and end of each row, or fasten them off with a few stitches on the wrong side.

They can also, when the occasion requires, be formed into a fringe or tassels as a finish to the work.

Position of the hands and explanation of (1) chain stitch (fig. 403).—Take the thread in the left hand between the finger and thumb, hold the needle between the thumb and first finger of the right hand, letting it rest on the second finger, in the same manner in which you hold your pen, and put it into the loop, which you hold between the finger and thumb of the left hand. Take up the thread, lying on your finger, with the needle and make your first stitch as you do in knitting, tightening the loop just enough to leave an easy passage through it for the needle. The end of the thread must be held by the thumb and forefinger. The next stitches are made by taking up the thread with the needle and drawing it through the loop. The throwing of the thread round the needle by a jerk of the wrist is called an 'over'.

(2) Single stitch (fig. 404).—Put the needle in from the right side of the work, into the uppermost loop of the preceding row, take up the thread on the needle and draw it through both loops.

(3) Plain stitch (fig. 405).—Put the needle through, as in fig. 404, from the right side to the wrong, under the upper side, either of a chain, or of a stitch of the preceding row, draw the thread through it in a loop, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through both loops on the needle. By making the rows of plain stitches follow each other in different ways, a great variety of stitches can be produced, as the illustrations and written instructions here given will show.

 

Rose stitch (fig. 406).—This consists of rows of plain stitches, worked backwards and forwards. Insert the needle from the right side, under both the horizontal loops of the preceding row.

Russian stitch (fig. 407).—This is worked like the foregoing, only that all the rows have to be begun from the same end, and the thread has to be cut off at the end of each row.

Ribbed stitch (fig. 408).—Worked backwards and forwards, the hook being passed through the back part only of the stitches of the preceding row.

Chain stitch.—Worked like fig. 408, but on one side only.

Piqué stitch.—This stitch also is only worked on one side. Put the needle in under one of the vertical threads of a stitch and complete the plain stitch. This is a stitch that looks very well on the wrong side; the bars of the loop lie quite close together, which makes it particularly suitable for unlined articles of clothing. It requires a large-sized needle to do this stitch well, especially if the material be a heavy one.

Slanting stitch (fig. 409).—Worked entirely on the right side. Take up the back thread of a stitch in the preceding row, take hold of the crochet thread without turning it round the needle and draw it through in a loop, and then finish the stitch like a plain stitch.

Crossed stitch.—The name which is given to the preceding stitch when both the threads of the stitches in the row before, are taken up together, instead of the back one only.

Russian crossed stitch (fig. 410).—To work this stitch which runs in slanting lines, put the needle in between the vertical threads of the stitches and underneath the two horizontal ones.

Counterpane stitch (fig. 411).—Counterpanes can be made in a less close stitch than those just described.

To produce a soft and elastic fabric turn the thread round the needle and insert it under both the horizontal threads of a loop, take up the thread without turning it round the needle, draw it through in a loop, make an over, and draw the thread through all the three loops, that you have on the needle.

Knotted stitch (fig. 412).—This stitch likewise is composed of plain stitches, which, however differ in a slight degree from those we have described hitherto.

Make an over, put the needle through the two horizontal threads of the stitch below, make another over and draw it back through the two loops and the first over, make another over, and draw the thread through the last two loops.

Loop stitch (fig. 413).—Worked as follows: when you have put the needle into the loop of a stitch below, carry the thread, downwards from above, round a stripe of cardboard or a flat wooden ruler, then finish the stitch in the usual way. These long loops, each about 2 c/m. in length, can also be made over the forefinger and held fast by the thumb as you work, but it is more difficult to make them regular in this way.

Each row of long stitches is followed by a row of plain stitches. The side, where the long loops lie, becomes the right side. If you wish this stitch to be very thick and handsome, wind the thread three times round the ruler, or finger, and secure it with a plain stitch; in this case, you should make one plain stitch between every two clusters. A loose, fleecy thread is generally used for this stitch, and for washing articles more especially, we recommend Coton à repriser D.M.C.

Plain stitches for a chain (fig. 414).—Begin with two chain stitches, put the needle in between the two threads of the first chain stitch, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through in a loop, turn it round again and draw it through the two loops; then, put the needle into the left part of the stitch that was just made, turn the thread round the needle, draw it through the two loops and so on, to the end.

A chain of this kind makes a very good substitute for mignardise when that can not be got of the right size and colour for the required purpose.

(4) Trebles.—Trebles are little columns, or bars made of loops or stitches. They can be worked, like all other crochet, either to and fro, or all one way. There are different kinds of trebles; half or short trebles, trebles, double trebles, called also 'long stitch', and quadruple and quintuple trebles, called 'extra long stitch', connected trebles and crossed trebles.

 

 

Half trebles (fig. 415).—Turn the cotton round the needle from behind, put the needle in between the trebles of the preceding row, or into one edge of a chain stitch; make an over, bring the needle forward again with the thread, make another over and draw the needle through all three loops.

Trebles (figs. 416 and 417).—Begin, as for the half treble, by turning the thread round the needle, and putting it in under one edge of the stitch beneath, then take up the thread on the needle and bring it through two of the loops, take it up again, and draw it through the two remaining loops.

In fig. 417, we have trebles made in the same manner as fig. 416, only that instead of putting the needle under one edge of the stitch beneath, you put it under both, and between the trebles of the last row.

Double trebles or 'long stitch' (fig. 418).—Turn the thread twice round the needle, put it into a stitch of the work and bring the thread through in a loop, then take up the thread on the needle and bring it through two of the loops, three times in succession.

Triple and quadruple trebles or 'extra long stitch' (fig. 419).—For a triple treble, twist the cotton three times round the needle, for a quadruple one, four times, then form the treble in the usual way by bringing the needle through two of the loops at a time. To make a series of trebles, of gradually increasing length, bring the needle, at every other treble, through the last three loops, so that before making a triple treble you will have to make columns, respectively, 1 treble, 1½ treble, 2 trebles and 2½ trebles long. Columns like these, of different lengths, are often required in crochet work, for leaves and scalloped edgings.

Connected trebles (fig. 420).—Trebles, connected together, can be worked to and fro, and take the place of plain stitches. Begin with a chain, then make a treble of the required height, form as many loops as you made overs for the treble, take up the upper thread of the stitch nearest the treble, turn the thread round the needle, bring it back to the right side and draw the needle through the trebles, two at a time.

Crossed trebles (figs. 421 and 422).—Trebles of this sort produce an open stitch, which is often used for the footing of lace, or for an insertion. Make a foundation of chain, or other stitches, and proceed as follows: 3 chain, miss 2 stitches of the row beneath, make 1 treble in the third stitch, 5 chain, 1 over, put the needle in between the loops of the connected trebles and finish with a treble. Then make a double over, put the needle into the next loop of the preceding row, make another over, draw the needle through the loops, make another over and join the two next loops. This leaves 3 loops on the needle. Make an over, put the needle into the third stitch of the row beneath, make an over, and bring the needle back to the right side.

Join the 5 loops on the needle together, 2 and 2, make 2 chain, 1 over, put the needle into the upper parts of the connected trebles and finish with a treble, and so on.

These trebles also can be lengthened if necessary, but in that case, the width of the crossed treble must correspond with the height. Generally speaking you make the trebles over the same number of stitches as you made overs on the needle, which should always be an even number.

Trebles for a chain.—A quicker way of making a wide footing for a crochet lace is to make the trebles in the following manner.

Make 4 chain stitches, 2 overs, put the needle into the first of the 4 chain, 1 over, draw the thread through the stitch *, 1 over, draw the thread through the next 2 loops and repeat twice from * = ** 2 overs, put the needle into the left bottom part of the treble, close the treble as before and repeat from **.

(5) Knot stitch (fig. 423).—This stitch which is composed of several loops forming a tuft, can only be worked from one side, consequently all one way. It looks best in a coarse material to show the interlacing of the threads.

Enter the needle through the two loops of the stitches of the bottom row, turn the thread round the needle, but away from you towards the back; bring it forward to the right side, put the needle again through one of the bottom stitches, make another over like the first and draw the needle through all the bars at once.

(6) Bullion Stitch (figs. 424 and 425).—For bullion stitch, select a needle, a little thicker towards the handle, and finer than you would use for any other crochet stitch.

Begin by making a chain of very loose stitches, then wind the thread several times, very evenly, round the needle. Insert the needle into a loop of the chain, make a single over, and draw it with the last over upon it, through all the other overs.

Trebles in bullion stitch, fig. 425, are worked in just the same manner, only that you have to turn the thread, at least 10 or 12 times round the needle and draw it through all the overs at once. To facilitate the passage of the needle, keep the overs in their place with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand.

Bullion stitch can only be worked with wool or a very fleecy thread, such as Coton à repriser D.M.C,[A]but trebles in bullion stitch can be worked in any of the D.M.C threads and cottons.

(7) Cluster stitch (fig. 426).—Generally used as an insertion between rows of plain crochet.

Put the needle under one stitch of the preceding row, make an over, draw the thread through in a loop, make another over, put the needle in again under the same stitch, bring it back, make a third over, and pass a third time under the same stitch; bring the needle back, make a fourth over and pass the needle through all the loops that are upon it.

Then, after making a chain stitch, begin the same stitch over again, placing it in the second stitch of the lower row.

Cluster stitch may also be finished off by retaining the two last loops on the needle, making an over, and ending with a plain stitch.

(8) Double stitch (fig. 427).—A rather coarse thread, such as Coton à tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10, or Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30[A] is better for this stitch than a loose fleecy thread which is apt to render it indistinct. Take up a loop right and left of a stitch of the preceding row, so that counting the loop of the last stitch, you have 3 loops on the needle, make an over and draw it through the 3 loops. Then take up a loop again by the side of the one you made on the left, and which now lies on the right. Take 2 loops in the next stitch, make an over and draw it through all the loops.

Raised stitch (fig. 428).—All the stitches that come under this heading require a foundation of a few plain rows for the raised trebles. In fig. 428, you will observe that the fourth stitch in the fourth row is a double treble, connected with a loop of the fourth stitch of the first row.

Miss the stitch of the preceding row, which is hidden under the treble, make 3 plain stitches, 1 double treble, and so on.

Having finished this row, turn the work and make a plain row. In the next row begin with 4 plain stitches, then make 1 double treble between the 3 stitches that are between the first trebles, 3 plain stitches, 2 double trebles and so on.

In the 8th row of plain stitches, the trebles must be placed in the same order as in the 4th.

Raised stitch with crossed trebles (fig. 429).—Begin, as in fig. 428, by 3 rows of plain stitches. The 4th row begins with 2 plain stitches followed by: * 1 double treble joined to the upper part of the 1st stitch of the 1st row; keep the 2 last loops of this treble on the needle; make a double over for the next treble, pass the needle through the fourth stitch of the first row, make an over, turn the thread round the needle, bring it back, finish the treble all but the last 3 loops, which you crochet together. Miss the stitch behind the treble, make 3 plain stitches and repeat from *.

Then turn the work, make one plain row, and turn the work back to the right side.

The second row of trebles begins with a plain stitch. The way in which the trebles are to be crossed is shewn in the illustration.

Raised stitch with dots (fig. 430).—After making 3 plain rows, begin the 4th with 3 plain stitches, and proceed as follows: * 6 trebles into the 4th plain stitch of the preceding row, leaving the last loop of each treble on the needle, so that altogether you have 7 loops upon it; then you turn the thread once round the needle and draw it through the loops; miss the stitch that is underneath the dot, make 3 plain stitches and repeat from *.

Then make 3 rows of plain stitches; in the 4th row, the 1st dot is made in the 4th stitch, so that the dots stand out in relief.

Raised dots with trebles (fig. 431).—Turn the work after making 3 rows of plain stitches, make 3 stitches more in the 4th stitch of the 1st row, * 6 trebles, drop the last stitch of the 6th treble, put the needle into the stitch between the last plain stitch and the 1st treble, take the dropped loop of the last treble and draw it through the one on the needle; miss the stitch under the dot, make 5 plain stitches and repeat from *.

Raised dots in slanting lines (fig. 432).—On the rows of stitches that have been previously prepared, make, for the 4th stitch of the 4th row, a cluster stitch, as in fig. 426, with 1 quadruple over and then 4 plain stitches, 1 cluster stitch and so on. The next row is plain; in the second you have to make 1 plain stitch more, and fasten the cluster stitches into the loops to the left of the second of the 3 covered rows. In this way you have to make each raised stitch, one stitch, in advance and to the left of the last, so that they run in slanting lines over the surface.

Close shell stitch (fig. 433).—This pretty stitch which can only be worked in rows, all one way, is more especially suitable for children's jackets and petticoats; it is easy, and has the merit of being quickly done. On a foundation of chain, or other stitches, make: 2 chain, 7 trebles on the 4th stitch, * 1 chain, 7 trebles on the 5th stitch of the last row and repeat from *.

2nd row—** 7 trebles on the chain stitch of the last row which connects 7 bars, 1 plain stitch on the 4th of the 7 trebles of the first row and repeat from **.

Picots.—The edges of most crochet work are ornamented with picots, or small points of different shapes, called severally close picots, chain picots and lace picots.

Close picots may be subdivided into, large and small, pointed, and rounded, picots with rounded leaves and picots with pointed leaves.

Small rounded picots.—These may either be made separately and then sewn on, or made at once, on to a crochet border. In the first case, begin with 3 chain, then coming back, make 1 plain stitch on the second and on the first chain stitch. In the second case make: 1 chain, take the needle out of the stitch and put it in from the right side, under both edges of the last stitch, take up the dropped stitch, bring it to the right side, * 3 chain; then returning: 1 plain stitch on each chain, draw the needle out, put it in from the right side into the second stitch of the row beneath, take up the loop, bring it back to the right side, and repeat from *.

Crochet Picot Design on YouTube

 

Large rounded picots.—5 chain, miss 3, 1 treble on the 2nd and 1 treble on the 1st chain stitch.

When you want to attach these picots at once to an existing piece of work, drop the last loop and bring it back again with the needle from the wrong side to the right and miss 2 stitches, instead of one, as in the case of the small picots.

Pointed picots.—Cast on 6 chain, then returning, and missing the 6th stitch: 1 single stitch, 1 plain stitch, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble.

Picots with rounded leaves.—* 4 chain, and 3 trebles on the first stitch, and 1 single on the same stitch on which the trebles were, **, or 6 chain and repeat from * to **.

When these picots serve as a finish to a straight edge, make 2 single stitches in the preceding row instead of 2 chain.

Picots with pointed leaves.—6 chain, on the first chain stitch: 3 double trebles, of which you retain the two last loops on the hook, 1 over, draw the thread through the 4 loops, 5 chain, 1 single on the stitch on which the trebles are.

Chain picots.—For the small chain picots, make: 5 chain and 1 plain stitch on the first of these 5 stitches. For the large ones: 5 chain and 1 treble on the first stitch.

Picots in bullion stitch (figs. 424 and 425).—5 chain, 1 treble in bullion stitch drawn up into a ring, and joined to the 5th chain stitch.

Drooping picots (fig. 434).—5 chain, drop the loop, put the needle into the first of the 5 chain, take up the dropped loop, and draw it through the stitch.

Lace picots (figs. 435 and 436).—Fig. 435 represents picots formed of chain stitches, as follows: 2 chain, put the needle into the first, 1 over, bring the thread back to the front, 2 chain: * put the needle into the two loops, and at the same time, into the second loop and the first chain, draw the thread through in a loop, make 2 chain and repeat from *.

In order to make the picots more even and regular, it is advisable to form them over a coarse knitting needle or mesh.

Fig. 436 represents picots attached by plain stitches to the edge of a finished piece of work; this is done as follows: 1 plain stitch, draw out the loop to the proper length for a picot, and slip it on a mesh: put the needle into the horizontal parts of the last stitches, turn the thread round the needle, draw it through in a loop, and make 1 plain stitch on the next stitch and so on.

Method for copying tapestry patterns in crochet work (figs. 437 and 438).—Printed cross stitch and embroidery patterns can very well be copied in crochet work especially when they are in two colours only, or rather, are drawn in one colour, on a plain ground.

The way in which such patterns are copied in crochet is by means of chain stitches and trebles, which, rising one above the other in rows, form little squares. For each square marked on the pattern, you must count, in the grounding, 1 treble and 2 chain stitches; in the solid parts, 3 trebles.

The squares formed by the chain stitches should always begin and end with a treble.

When, therefore, a solid square comes between empty or foundation squares, count 4 trebles for the solid square, because the last treble of the last empty square touches the third treble of the solid one.

Thus for 2 solid squares, side by side, count 7 trebles, and for 3 squares, 10. Embroidery patterns worked in several colours can be reproduced in crochet either by trebles and rows worked one way only, cutting off the thread at the end of each row, or by plain stitches, worked in rows to and fro.

When only three colours are used, pass two threads under the stitches; when more than two, leave those which are not in use, at the back of the work and only bring them to the front as they are wanted. The thread, you lay aside, takes at the back the place of the one in use. Of course, the threads not in use can only can be disposed of in this way when the work has a wrong side, otherwise they must be passed underneath the stitches. The colours should alternate in the order the pattern prescribes; moreover, the last stitch before you take another colour cannot be finished with the same thread, you must pass the new thread through the last loop and draw it up with that.

Crochet with Soutache or Lacet (braid) (figs. 439 and 440).—These are two patterns of crochet, worked with the ordinary crochet cottons and with Soutache or Lacet D.M.C, a material which has not been used for crochet work before.

Both patterns are worked entirely with trebles; in fig. 439, the red braid passes over and under 2 trebles; in fig. 440, it is brought, it will be observed, from the wrong side to the right after every 2 trebles, and passed between them, in such a manner as to form a slanting stitch between the rows of stitches.

Crochet square (fig. 441).—Begin with 4 chain stitches, and work 1 single on the 1st chain, to make a round. Work, 1 chain and 2 plain on the next chain, 3 plain on each of the next 3 chain, 1 plain on the stitch on which the two first plain are worked.

Slip the next stitch, that is, put the needle in between the horizontal bars of the 1st plain stitch of the previous row, and draw the thread out without making a stitch.

Then make 1 chain and 2 plain on the slipped stitch.

After which, you make 3 plain on the second of the 3 plain that form the corner, and 1 plain on all the other stitches of the last row. The beginning and end of each row, are worked as described above.

Fig. 441 represents a square, worked in consecutive rows. In making a crochet square, the rows may end in the middle of a side.

When you use a stitch that has to be worked to and fro, you turn your work at the end of every row and work back along the stitches you have just made.

Crochet hexagon (fig. 442).—Make a foundation chain of 6 stitches, join the round; 12 plain on the 6 chain; finish the row as indicated for the previous figure == turn the work == * 1 plain, 3 plain on the second plain of the last row; repeat 5 times from *. Finish the row with 1 single == turn the work == 2 plain, 3 plain on the second of the first 3 plain; 3 plain and so on. These hexagons can be made of any size.

Coloured star worked into a light ground (fig. 443).—Begin with 3 chain, join the ring = 2 plain on each of the 3 chain; then for the foundation, 1 plain with the dark thread, and 1 with the light on each of the 6 plain.

In each subsequent row, make one dark stitch more, increasing regularly, that is, making 2 stitches on the last light stitch that comes before the dark ones.

Proceed in this manner until you have 6 or 8 dark stitches, in all and then begin to decrease in every row by one, until there is at last only one dark stitch remaining.

These stars are used in the making of purses, cap-crowns and mats for lamps, etc.

Tunisian crochet.—Tunisian crochet is also called crochet-knitting because, you have to cast on all the first row of stitches, as in knitting.

Materials—Every kind of cotton, as well as wool and silk, can be used for Tunisian crochet: the stitches look equally well in all these materials, but for things that require frequent washing or cleaning, a good washing material should be selected, such as Coton à tricoter D.M.C and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C[A], both strong and suitable in all ways.

As we have already said, Tunisian crochet requires to be done with a long straight needle, with a knob at one end and it can only be worked on the right side.

Plain Tunisian crochet (fig. 444).—After making a foundation chain of the required length, begin the first, or loop row as it is called. Put the needle into the 2nd chain stitch, draw a loop through and so on, until you have taken up all the chain stitches on the needle. After having made the last stitch of the loop row, make 1 chain stitch and then pass to the second row that completes the stitch. Turn the thread round the needle, draw it through two loops, turn the thread round again, and again draw it through two loops, and so on to the end.

Straight plaited Tunisian stitch (fig. 445).—Worked thus: miss the first loop in the 1st row, take up the second, and come back to the first, so that the 2 loops are crossed. Work the second row in the same manner as the second row of the preceding figure.

Diagonal plaited Tunisian stitch (fig. 446).—Worked like the preceding, taking up first the second loop and then the first: the second row also, in the same way as before. In the third row, take up the first stitch, and draw the third through the second, so as to produce diagonal lines across the surface of the work.

Open Tunisian stitch.—This is an easy kind of Tunisian crochet. The first row is worked as in fig. 444. In the row of plain stitches, you alternately join 2 and 3, or 3 and 4 loops of the preceding row together, and replace them by as many chain stitches.

Decreasing and increasing in Tunisian crochet (fig. 447). Our illustration shows how to decrease on both sides and by that means form scallops.

You miss a stitch alternately on the right and left. On the right you crochet the first two stitches together, and at the end of the row, the last two, and so on, to the end. You increase in the same order, first on the right and then on the left.

Hairpin crochet (figs. 448, 449, 450).—So called because it is worked on a kind of large steel hairpin or fork with two or more prongs. Wooden and nickel varieties of this implement, which are patented by Mme Besson, of Paris, are also used.

Very pretty laces, fringes, gimp headings and the like can be made in this kind of crochet work. It is often used in combination with ordinary crochet and plain and scalloped braids and gimps, or as a heading for fringes made of tufts and pendant balls. There are a great many stitches which can be worked in hairpin-crochet. We shall only describe those here that will best teach our readers how the work is done.

Materials.—For washing laces, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C is the best; for furniture fringes, the lower numbers of Coton à tricoter D.M.C, and for producing the appearance of filoselle, the lower numbers of Coton à repriser D.M.C are to be taken.

Stitches.—Begin by a chain stitch, made with an ordinary crochet needle, take the needle out of the loop, and insert the left prong of the fork upwards from below, holding the fork between the thumb and finger of the left hand. The thread should always be in front. Then put the thread over the right prong and the needle into the loop on the left prong, take up the thread, draw it through the loop, put the thread over the needle and draw it through the loop that is on the needle, twist the loop round the left prong, turn the needle round to the right (the thread will now be wound round the right prong); put the needle into the loop on the left prong, throw the thread over the needle, draw it through, tighten the loops and so on.

These stitches may be doubled, or you may make several trebles on each loop, or arrange the plain stitches in different ways.

Hairpin insertion (fig. 451).—Begin by making stripes with the fork, covering each thread with two plain stitches. Then join the stripes together by the loops, drawing the left loop over the right one and the right one over the left. When you come to the end of the stripes fasten off the last loops by a few stitches. To strengthen the edges, join two loops together by 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 plain and so on.

Hairpin lace (fig. 452).—When, by making two half trebles in each loop, you have got the necessary length of hairpin crochet, join the loops two and two, by means of a coloured thread which makes a good contrast with the thread of which the hairpin crochet is made. Work 1 plain stitch joining 2 loops on the right, 2 chain, 1 plain joining the 2 loops on the left; then 2 chain and come back to the right, and so on, until you have taken up all the loops. This forms the zig-zag in the middle.

1st row—join 3 loops by: 1 plain, 5 chain.

2nd row—on the 5 chain stitches: 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 3 trebles, 1 picot, made with 5 chain (for the chain picots, see p. 237), 1 half-treble, 1 plain. The footing of this lace is made like the one in fig. 451.

Hairpin fringes (figs. 453, 454, 455, 456).—Fig. 453 is made with a fork composed of one branch and 3 or 4 rulers, round which the thread is wound in succession, so as to form loops of different lengths. You may use for this, either a single very coarse thread, or else several fine ones, used together as one.

The heading of the fringe is plain, and heavy tassels are fastened into the loops. The tassels are made as follows: take a thick skein of the same thread the fringe is made of, pass it through the loop, leaving just the length required for the tassel, at one end, thread a needle with the same thread and twist it round the skein, the right distance from the top to form the head of the tassel and then cut the ends even, at the bottom. As the loops are of different lengths, the tassels will hang in steps and the fuller and heavier they are, the handsomer the fringe will be.

Fig. 454 represents another pattern of fringe, the first part of which is made with the same fork as the preceding one. Instead however of winding the thread round the several prongs in succession, you pass it alternately round the two first and the fourth, thus making loops of two lengths only. Tassels of a length, suited to the purpose the fringe is intended for, depend from these loops and may be varied in the second row by balls made to issue from the middle, or by long meshes, which are made over the whole width of the fork and affixed to the loops.

Figs. 455 and 456 represent two pretty patterns of fringes made of écru cotton with a strong twist. These are very suitable for washing articles, as the cotton balls wash perfectly.

The loops in fig. 455 are all of one length and a ball hangs from every third. In the last chapter but one, a minute description is given of the way in which these balls are made. The heading of the loops is formed by a row of chain stitches, varying in number from four to six, according to the size of the cotton. The edge is ornamented with little picots. The fringe, in fig. 456, consists of three long and three short loops alternately, which causes, the balls that are made to depend from them, to form two parallel lines.

If you join the loops of the heading together, three and three, you will have to make enough chain stitches to cover the space that is to be filled.

The picots are made with 6 chain stitches, you put the needle back into the fifth stitch after closing the picot, make 1 chain, 2 plain, in the preceding row, 1 picot and so on.

Fringe made with Lacet or braid (fig. 457).—This is an easy fringe to make and a very effective trimming for table-cloths, curtains etc., which are embroidered on coarse stuffs.

Begin with a foundation chain, in coarse écru twist, the light stitch in the middle of the heading of the fringe being also made of the same material.

In the next row, you use the twist and the braid together, as follows—with the twist = 1 chain stitch, put the needle into the first stitch of the foundation chain, take up the braid, draw it through, turn the twist round the needle, draw it through the braid and the chain stitch. To make the braid loops longer, they may be made over a wooden ruler. To the two rows of braid stitches, represented in the pattern, you may add as many other rows as you please. On the fringed side make: 4 plain, 3 chain, draw out one very long loop and fasten into it a cluster of lengths of braid from 10 to 12 c/m. long, and draw the loop tightly round it to secure the tassel; 3 plain on the chain stitches. Repeat from *.

Lace made on Point Lace braid (fig. 458).—For the rounds: 1 plain on the braid, 10 chain, then coming back, 1 single on the 4th chain.

In this first round you make: 1 chain, 1 half-treble, 12 trebles *, 1 half-treble, 1 chain, 1 single on the 4th chain; 3 chain, 1 single on the braid, far enough from the 1st chain for the rounds not to overlap each other. Then 10 chain, 1 single on the 4th chain, 1 single, 1 half-treble, 4 trebles, join to the first round between the 8th and 9th trebles, 8 trebles and repeat from *. For the footing: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss a few threads of the edge of the braid, 1 treble.

Crochet guipure lace (fig. 459).—This charming little lace makes a very good substitute for real guipure. It can be made on a row of trebles, just as well as on point lace braid, or on a mignardise, after you have raised the picots of it by single and chain stitches.

6 plain *, 9 chain, leave an interval equalling in length 6 bars of the point lace braid used in our pattern; in the braid: 6 plain stitches, very close together, 8 chain, 1 single on the 7th of the 9 chain, 10 chain, 1 single on the 3d of the 9 chain, 8 chain, 1 plain close to the first of the first 6 plain.

1st scallop—7 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain; on the 5th chain: 6 plain; on the 8th chain: 3 plain.

2nd scallop—on the 10 chain: 7 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain = on the 5 chain: 6 plain = on the 10 chain, 5 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain, 6 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain, 6 chain, 1 plain on the 10th chain.

3rd scallop—like the first, then repeat from *.

Lace made on Point Lace braid (fig. 460).—On the braid, work a row of trebles, 1 or 2 chain stitches apart, according to the size of the braid and on this row of trebles, make two other rows as follows:

1st row—5 chain, 1 treble on the treble of the preceding row, 5 chain, 1 treble, on the same stitch to which the first treble is joined, 5 chain, miss 3 trebles, 1 treble on the 4th treble of the row beneath.

2nd row—1 plain on the 3rd of the 5 first chain, 3 plain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the chain stitches between the two trebles of the first row that come close together; 3 chain, 1 treble on the same stitch, 3 chain, 1 treble on the same stitch, 3 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the next 5 chain.

Crochet lace (fig. 461).—1st row—3 plain close together, in the braid; * 13 chain, join to the 1st plain. On each of the first 6 chain; 1 plain; = on the 7th chain: 3 plain, then on the other chain stitches: 6 plain. In the braid: 7 plain and repeat from *.

2nd row—* miss 2 plain of the first row, 5 plain to reach the 2nd stitch added in the first row, 4 plain on the 2nd added stitch, 4 plain on the next stitches. Repeat from *.

For an insertion, drop the thread after the 2nd of the 4 stitches that are to be made at the point, then put the needle into the stitch of the finished stripe, take up the thread again, draw it through the stitch and proceed to the second side of the scallop.

Crochet lace with mignardise (fig. 462).—This and all the patterns that follow, up to fig. 473, make very useful trimmings for all kinds of underclothing. Begin by raising the picots on both sides of the mignardise by: 1 plain stitch and 1 chain.

The rows of crochet work between, consist of: 1 treble on 1 chain, 4 chain, miss 2 picots of the mignardise, 1 treble between the 3rd and 4th picot.

Work the edge in two rows.

1st row—1 treble between 2 picots, 3 chain, miss 2 picots, 1 treble.

2nd row—1 treble on 3 chain, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 3 trebles, 7 chain, turn back and join to the 1st of the 3 trebles, 2 chain, join them to the 2nd treble, 2 trebles on the 7 chain; keep the last loops of the last treble on the needle and join them to those of the next treble.

Lace with two rows of leaves (fig. 463).—This is one of the pleasantest crochet patterns to work that we know. The leaves are made separately and fastened into a foundation with thread, at least two numbers finer than that of which the leaves are made.

Leaf with 5 petals: 8 chain, make a ring = 2 plain on the ring = 1st petal * 11 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble on the 8th chain, 1 chain, miss the 7th chain, 1 treble on the 6th chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 4th chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 2 chain, 2 plain on the ring.

2nd petal: 15 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble *, 1 chain, miss 1 chain, 1 treble *. Repeat 4 times from * to *; add: 1 chain, 2 trebles on the ring.

3rd petal: 21 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble *, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 treble *. Repeat 7 times from * to *; add: 1 chain, miss 1, 2 trebles in the ring.

The 4th petal to be worked like the 3rd; the 5th like the 1st.

When the 5 petals are finished, make 2 plain stitches on the ring; then on the chain stitches of the 1st petal: 2 plain, 7 trebles, 2 trebles on the 10th stitch; then descending again: 7 trebles, 2 plain and 3 single on the 3 plain stitches of the ring.

On the 2nd petal work: 3 plain, 10 trebles, 2 trebles on the 14th chain, 10 trebles, 3 plain, 2 single, on the 2 trebles on the ring.

3rd petal: 2 single, 3 plain, 14 trebles, 2 trebles on the 20th chain, 14 trebles, 3 plain, a single.

The 4th petal is worked like the 2nd; the 5th like the 1st, to be followed by 1 single on the 1st of the 3 chain stitches of the ring.

For the stalk: 14 chain; miss 1, 9 plain on the 9 chain; 6 chain, miss 1, 5 plain on the 5 chain, 4 plain on the chain stitches that are still disengaged, 2 single on the ring and then fasten the thread off with a few stitches.

When you have enough leaves, join them together by a row of picots, working from left to right as follows: * take the second petal on the right side of a leaf, put the thread into the 12th stitch; make 2 plain, 1 picot, 1 plain on the stitch on which the picot was made = in all the leaves, the 3rd plain before the picot and the first after, meet in the same stitch beneath = 2 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 2 chain = on the 8th stitch of the 3rd petal: 1 plain, 2 plain more on the next stitches **, 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 6 times from ** and finish with 2 chain.

On the 7th stitch of the 4th petal: 1 plain, 2 plain on the next stitches ***, 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 4 times from ***.

On the 5th stitch of the 5th petal: 1 plain, and on the 4 next, 4 plain ****. Repeat from * to ** round each leaf, then instead of a picot, make 4 chain, join between the 1st and 2nd picot, 4 chain, close the picot. From this point the preceding series of stitches takes the place of the picot that immediately follows the sign **; proceed to ****.

Foundation for the footing of the lace, with a single row of leaves.—When all the leaves are joined together, take the finer number of cotton and fasten your thread to the last stitch of the small stalk; then make: * 2 chain, 1 plain on the 9th stitch of the 5th petal; 6 chain, miss 2, 1 plain on the 3rd stitch; 6 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd stitch, 1 chain, 1 plain on the 5th stitch of the 4th petal; 6 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd chain; 2 chain, 1 plain on the 4th stitch (counting from the bottom) of the 5th petal of the next leaf; 3 chain, 1 single on the last stitch of the long stalk; 3 chain, join to the 3rd chain stitch, 3 chain, draw the thread again in coming back through the 3rd of the second set of 6 chain stitches in the 1st petal; 1 single; turning back and from left to right: 1 single on the plain stitch between the chain stitches, 6 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd of the last 3 chain, 6 chain, 1 plain on the stalk, 6 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd stitch of the stalk; 6 chain, 1 plain on the 4th stitch of the stalk; 7 chain, 1 plain at the top of the little stalk, then repeat from *. The network in the next rows, which may be of any width, is composed of: 6 chain stitches and, 1 plain on the loop of the last row.

For the last row but one of the network, make: 4 chain, 1 plain over each loop, and complete the lace by a row of plain stitches.

To make the leaves stand out from the foundation, use two shades of thread, white and écru, white and Jaune-Rouille 365, or white and Gris-Cendre 415.

The following is the way to join two rows of leaves together, that have previously been edged with picots.

Fasten the thread on to the little stalk, * 3 chain, 1 plain on the 8th stitch of the leaf, 2 chain, join to the middle picot of the 3rd petal of the top leaf; 2 chain, 3 plain on the 5th petal of the bottom row, 1 picot, 3 plain.

For the 2nd petal of the bottom leaf: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain.

For the 5th petal of the next leaf below: 3 plain, 4 chain, 1 single on the long stalk, 5 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd picot of the 1st petal of the preceding leaf, 5 chain, 1 single on the 2nd picot of the 4th petal of the top leaf, 4 chain, 1 plain on the 4th single of the stalk, 3 chain, 1 single on the 7th picot of the 3rd petal of the top leaf, 3 chain, miss 1 stitch of the stalk, 1 plain on the stalk, 3 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the top leaf, 3 chain, 1 plain on the little stalk. Repeat from *.

Three and even four rows of leaves may be joined together in this manner and make a very handsome lace, particularly suitable for church linen.

Insertion with waved braid (fig. 464).—1 plain stitch at the point of the braid, 7 chain, 1 single on the 2nd chain. On the next chain stitches: 1 half-treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 triple treble, 1 plain on the next point of the braid.

Repeat the same stitches on the second side, only that after the 6th chain stitch, you draw the thread through the 7th of the 1st finished row.

Little wheels, set between the crochet pyramids, and described in the chapters on filet-guipure and Irish lace, complete the insertion.

Crochet lace, made with leaf braid (fig. 465).—Introduce the thread into one of the leaves of the braid and working from right to left, make for the outer border: * 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch, with 5 twists of the thread, 2 chain, 1 treble near the end of the leaf. Leave the last 2 loops of the treble on the needle **.

Take 2 leaves of the braid, fold them one upon the other: 1 treble near the stalk of these folded leaves, tighten the loops of the 2 trebles; chain ***, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 plain, 2 chain. Repeat 5 times from ***.

Proceed with 1 picot, 2 chain,—there will be 7 picots round the folded leaves—1 treble on the folded leaves and repeat from ** to *, therefore the inverse way, and begin again from *.

For the footing of the lace, 4 rows are required.

1st row—* 1 double treble close to the stalk of the leaf, 5 chain, 1 treble, at the third of the leaf, 1 double treble at the 2nd third of the leaf, 5 chain, 2 double trebles, one on the right leaf, one on the left, draw the last loops of the 2 trebles up together and repeat from *.

2nd row—On each of the little loops formed by the 5 chain of the last row: 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain; 1 plain on the next loop and so on.

3rd row—1 plain on the 4th of the 7 chain, 5 chain, 1 plain and so on.

4th row—1 plain on each loop of the last row.

Crochet lace made with leaf braid (fig. 466).—Begin with the outside edge:

1st row:—At the end of a leaf: 1 treble, 6 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch, 6 chain, 1 treble = at the beginning of a 2nd leaf: 6 chain, 1 picot, 6 chain, 1 treble at the end of the leaf = 7 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd leaf = 6 chain, 1 picot, 6 chain, 1 treble at the end of the 3rd leaf = 6 chain, 1 treble, 6 chain, 1 treble on the 4th leaf = 1 double treble joined to the 4th and 1st leaf of the next scallop = 1 treble at the end of the 1st leaf, join and draw the last loops of these 3 trebles together.

2nd row—over each treble and picot: * 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 plain = repeat 6 times from *.

At the indent and before the last picot: 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain = 1 plain before the 1st picot of the next scallop.

3rd row—1 treble, 8 chain, repeat 6 times. In the indent join the 4th of the 7 chain stitches right and left together by 1 treble.

4th row—15 single on each loop of 8 chain.

Inside junction.—Begin at the edge of the first leaf, fasten on the thread and make 10 chain and, 1 double treble at the end of the leaf, 1 triple treble, and draw up both together, 5 chain, 2 triple trebles on the leaves to the right and left = 5 chain, 2 triple trebles, one at the end and the other at the beginning of the 3rd and 4th leaf = 2 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch, 2 chain, 1 plain on the last stitch of the first trebles, 10 chain, 1 plain on the last stitch of the last trebles; 5 chain, 1 triple treble at the end of the 4th leaf.

Going back to the beginning: 5 chain, 1 single on the 10 chain above the picot = 5 chain, 1 single on the 5th of the first 10 chain = 12 chain, 1 plain on the loop of the last triple treble, 7 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch, 6 chain = 1 plain on the stalk between the 2 leaves; 6 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 triple treble on the leaf, 5 chain, repeat from *.

2nd row—5 chain, 1 treble on the lower loops. Distribute the chain stitches equally.

3rd row—1 plain in the braid that forms the footing of the lace, 2 chain, 1 plain on the last chain stitches, 2 chain, 1 plain in the braid, continuing in this manner to join the crochet work and the braid together.

Irish lace (fig. 467).—Begin with the semicircles in the middle of the pattern, which arch over two scallops, and cast on 117 chain. Then lay a double or threefold thread of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 2, over the chain stitches, and make one plain stitch on each; then cut the padding thread short off.

On the other side of the chain make 2 plain, * 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, miss 7; 1 plain on each of the 2 next stitches **.

Repeat 11 times from * to **; the 11th time making only 6 chain.

2nd and 3rd row—On the upper side, over a double thread of twist: 1 plain on each stitch of the last row; cut off the padding thread = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 plain on the 4th of the 7 chain stitches after the first picot of the preceding row = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 plain on the 4th of the next 7 chain stitches **. Repeat 11 times from * to ** and then make: 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 plain.

On the upper side and without a padding thread: 3 plain, 1 picot, * 5 plain, 1 picot, **. Repeat 20 times from * to **. Continue with: 3 plain, 10 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain on the 4th of the first 7 chain of the 2nd row on the inside of the semicircle = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 plain on the plain stitch of the previous row = 1 plain on the 1st of the 3 chain = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain as before, = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 plain = 2 chain, 1 picot, 9 chain, 1 plain, return and make on the 9 chain: 7 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = make 4 more scallops like the previous one = 2 chain, 1 picot, 9 chain, 1 plain = return and make on the 9 chain: 7 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = make 2 more scallops, and then a 3rd joined to the scallop that terminates the semicircle on the right by the 2 plain stitches = 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain on the point of the crescent = 22 scallops consisting of: 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain.

9 plain on the scallop that terminates the semicircle on the left, 7 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop = make 2 bars more of the same kind = 7 chain, 2 plain = 3 bars like the previous ones = 7 chain, 2 plain = 3 bars as before = 2 plain, 7 chain, 7 plain on the next scallop = 1 bar consisting of 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain over all the scallops of the preceding row (24 scallops in all).

4th row—3 chain *, 8 trebles on the 7 chain that follow the 7 plain = turn the work = 1 single on the last treble, 3 chain, 1 treble on the 7th and 1 on the 6th of the 8 trebles, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 5th and 1 on the 4th of the 8 trebles, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd and 1 on the 2nd of the 8 trebles, 3 chain, 1 single on the 1st of the 8 trebles = turn the work = ** on the 3 chain: 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 1 treble, 1 half-treble, 1 plain = 1 plain between the 2 trebles below = on the 2 chain, 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 1 treble, 1 half-treble, 1 plain *** = 1 plain between the 2 trebles beneath, repeat from *** to **, therefore the reverse way.

Go on with 2 scallops consisting of 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = after the 2nd scallop: 2 chain, 1 picot, 5 chain = 8 trebles on the 7 chain over the 7 plain and finish the little flowers consisting of 4 scallops each, like the first from * to *** and from *** to ** = 2 plain to get back to the scallop = 1 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, and make a 3rd flower of 4 scallops like the 2 others = 2 single to come back to the scallop, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = 2 more scallops like the previous ones, then make the 4th flower of 4 scallops, which must come before the 7 plain stitches of the previous row = 20 scallops consisting of: 2 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = the last scallop is to be joined to the 1st scallop of the 1st flower, under the left point of the semicircle = 3 single along the small scallop, 3 trebles, 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain on the point of the scallop = 3 bars like the previous ones to be joined to the 2 next scallops = 3 similar bars between the small scallops = 1 single on the scallop between the 2 flowers and 1 single on the 2nd set of chain stitches in the scallop that precedes the 3rd flower = 1 single on the point of the 1st scallop of the 3rd flower = continue the little bars along the 2nd side until past the 4th flower = after the 4th flower make 2 bars consisting of 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 2 plain = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop **** 7 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next scallop ***** repeat five times from **** to *****. At the 2nd repetition make 1 bar with 1 picot more, so that you have 4 bars instead of 3. At the 5th repetition you decrease by 1 bar, so that you have 2 instead of 3.

1 plain on the point of the scallop of the flower, 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 3 plain, one of which is made on the 2nd plain of the previous row, and the 2nd on the bar of chain stitches = 3 plain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain = 2 more similar scallops = then 3 chain, 1 picot, 9 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd plain of the previous row = join and on the 9 chain make 7 plain = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain.

Over the 1st little flower inside the semicircles, make 1 scallop like the previous ones = then 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 2 plain on the 3rd point of the first flower = 2 chain, 2 plain on the 2nd point of the second flower = 6 plain on the scallop and joined to the 3rd point of the first flower = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain = 2 plain = 1 scallop like the previous ones, 2 plain on the 4th point of the small flower, 3 chain, 1 picot, 9 chain, 1 plain = 7 plain over the 9 chain = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain.

Make 7 scallops of: 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain, after the 7th scallop make 1 chain only, which must come just before the 7th chain to the left without a picot and above the point of the semicircle.

Over the 7 chain make a flower like the first with 4 scallops = then 3 scallops, 3 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain. Make one more flower with 4 scallops, 3 scallops like the previous ones = a third flower with 4 scallops, 2 chain, 2 plain, one of them above the point of the row beneath, 12 chain, 1 plain over the next scallop = turn the work and coming back over the row just made, make: 7 plain on the first 7 of the 12 chain, 1 plain on the point of the scallop, 4 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain, 1 plain on the next scallop, carry on the bars over the flowers and scallops, making 1 plain on the scallops of the flower and 2 plain on the other scallops, up to the 5 plain stitches between the 2 flowers underneath the semicircle.

After the plain stitch that joins the last bar, turn the work and make 23 scallops consisting of: 4 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain, 2 plain.

Cut off the thread and fasten it on above the semicircle and at the plain stitch which precedes the 7 chain without picot and make the second side like the first = having reached the middle, close to the 5 plain, turn the work = make the half round of bars and fasten off at the 4th scallop of the flower above the semicircle.

Fasten on at the point under the flowers where the work was turned and on the wrong side, and from right to left, work: 21 scallops consisting of 4 chain, 1 picot, 7 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain, 2 plain = then add: 4 chain, 1 picot, 10 chain, 1 plain above the point of the scallop of the small flower = turn the work: 7 plain over the 10 chain.

22 bars of 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 2 plain = after the 22nd bar, 10 chain = come back and join to the picot of the 21st bar = 2 chain, 8 trebles over the 10 chain and complete the flower as before. After the 4th scallop of the flower: 2 chain, 1 single, quite close to the 8 trebles, 3 chain, 2 plain on the next bar, 3 chain, 1 picot, join to the 2nd stitch of the 4th scallop of the flower, 3 chain, carry on the bars the same distance as on the first side.

Footing of the lace—On the chain stitches that follow the 3rd plain stitch and above the last little figure: 1 triple treble, 6 chain, join to the middle plain stitch = miss 1 scallop, 1 treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 double treble, 6 chain, = miss 1 scallop, 1 triple treble, 6 chain, = miss 1 scallop of the figure on the left, 1 double treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 double treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 treble, 6 chain = miss 1 scallop, 1 double treble, 6 chain, 1 triple treble, 6 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the next plain stitch. Repeat the whole, reversed, and finish off the footing with a row of plain stitches.

Edge of the lace.—Fasten on, where the semicircles join: 1 double treble on the first 3 chain stitches of the empty scallop, 5 chain, 1 double treble on the next disengaged chain stitches of the half scallop; continue the same on all the chain scallops and distribute the trebles so that there may be in all, 13 times 5 chain stitches.

Add 2 triple trebles, the last loops of them, connected by a plain stitch; the 1st triple treble on the 3 last chain stitches of the last scallop, the 2nd on the plain stitch, that follows the 1st scallop of the middle figure = 4 chain, 1 treble on the plain stitch of the 2nd point. Repeat the same, reversed.

2nd row—On the first 5 chain of the last row: 5 plain = on the next 5 chain: 5 plain = on the 3 chain, leave a space: 5 plain, 12 chain, come back and join to the 8th chain stitch by a single stitch = on the scallop: 4 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain = and so on, until you have 8 points altogether.

The plain stitches must be distributed as follows:

For the 2nd point: in the 4th space 4 plain, in the 5th space 3 plain = for the 3rd point: in the 5th space, 2 plain, in the 6th space, 5 plain = for the 4th point: in the 6th space 1 plain, in the 7th space 6 plain = for the 5th point: in the 8th space 4 plain, in the 9th space 3 plain = for the 6th point: in the 9th space 3 plain, in the 10th space 4 plain = for the 7th point: in the 11th space 7 plain = for the 8th point: in the 12th space 7 plain = 5 plain in each of the 2 remaining spaces.

Crochet lace (fig. 468).—This is always an effective pattern, in any number of thread. It is not new, however, and is probably already known to many of our readers as a pillow lace. Those who are not fond of making pillow lace, will be glad to learn how to reproduce it in crochet, as it makes a pretty trimming, both for wearing apparel and furniture. For furniture, it should be made in unbleached cotton, for articles of dress, in any of the of the finer numbers, referred to above.

For the separate squares, cast on 10 chain stitches, and close the ring.

1st row—* 5 chain, 1 plain on the ring. Repeat 3 times from *.

2nd row—1 chain, 1 plain on the first 5 chain: * 5 chain, 1 plain = on the first 5 chain of the 1st row: 2 chain, 1 plain on the second 5 chain of the 1st row. Repeat 3 times from *.

3rd row—1 plain on the first 5 of the 2nd row: * 5 chain, 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 plain. Repeat 3 times from *.

In the 4th and following rows, go on increasing, as in the 3rd row, until, on all 4 sides, you have 11 plain stitches between every 5 chain.

12th row—1 plain, 5 chain, 1 plain, * 1 picot made of 4 chain, 1 plain between the 1st and the 2nd plain of the last row, 2 chain, 1 plain between the next 2 plain. Repeat 3 times from *, and fasten off.

Crochet the squares together, as you finish them. After the 12th and last plain stitch, make: 2 chain, drop the loop, put the hook into the 3rd of the 5 chain stitches that form one corner of the square, draw the dropped loop through, 2 chain, close the picot, finish the square.

For the star that connects the squares—10 chain, close the ring; * 4 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain, 1 over, join the 2 picots right and left of the squares that are to be joined together, by 1 treble; 4 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, drop the loop, put the needle into the first of the first 4 chain stitches, draw the thread through, 2 plain on the ring, 8 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd picot and 1 treble on the 4th picot of the square = coming back: 1 plain on each of the 8 chain; 2 plain on the ring, and repeat 3 times from *.

For the half-star, that fills the space under the footing of the lace: 10 chain, close the ring = 9 chain, 1 treble on the 1st picot of the square; 4 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain; draw the thread through the 1st of the 9 chain = 2 plain, 8 chain, join the 3rd and 4th picots of the square by 1 treble bar on each picot = 8 single stitches on the 8 chain, 2 plain on the ring; 4 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain = on the 1st and last picot of the 2 opposite squares: 1 treble, 4 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, drop the loop, draw it through the 1st of the 4 chain stitches = 2 plain, 8 chain, join 2 picots by 2 trebles = 8 single, 2 plain on the ring, 4 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain, 1 treble on the last picot = 8 chain, draw the thread through the 1st of the 4 chain.

The footing is made as follows—* 1 plain on the 5 upper chain stitches of the square; 17 chain up to the ring, 3 plain, 17 chain and repeat from *. A row of plain stitches completes the footing.

Outer edge—* 2 treble on the 1st picot, 4 chain, and repeat 5 times from *.

On the 5 chain stitches, in the corner, make: 1 treble = 4 chain, 1 treble on the 5 chain and finish the second side of the square like the first. Omit the chain stitches, between the 1st and last trebles of the squares.

The next and last row consists of: 2 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain every 4 chain. On the last 4 chain, at the point where 2 scallops join, make 4 plain stitches, without picots.

Lace with stars (fig. 469).—Begin with the stars, make a chain of 18 stitches, close the ring, mount it on a mould, wind a soft thread, such as Coton à repriser D.M.C No 60, seven or eight times round it, and make 30 plain stitches upon it, joining the last to the first by a single stitch.

Then: * 13 chain, and returning, miss the 1st chain = on the 12 chain: 1 single, 2 plain, 2 half-trebles, 2 trebles, 2 double trebles, 1 double treble and a half, 2 triple trebles; keep the two last loops of the last treble but one, on the needle, and join them, to those of the last treble. Repeat 5 times from *.

2nd row—1 plain, on the upper stitch that was missed in the 1st row; * 17 chain, 1 plain on the next point. Repeat 5 times from *.

3rd row—* 6 plain, 3 chain, miss 2 stitches of the lower row. Repeat from *.

4th row—All round the last row, on each of the bottom stitches 1 plain; after every 6 stitches, 1 picot. This will give you 19 picots in all, separated from each other by 6 stitches.

Inner connection—Fasten on the thread at the 5th treble, counting from the ring: 1 single, 8 chain. Draw out the thread, from the back, through the 9th of the 17 chain round the star = 8 chain * join with 1 chain to the 5th treble, passing the thread through to the back = work on the wrong side: 3 chain, bring the thread back between the 5th treble to the right side, and repeat 5 times from *. In joining the stars, place them so that 9 picots are turned to the edge, and 8 to the footing. The 10th and the 19th picots serve to join the stars.

1st row—2 trebles between the 19th and the 9th of the * 9 picots, 7 chain, 1 treble; repeat 9 times from *.

After the 10th treble, make no more chain stitches, but 1 treble immediately between the 19th and the 1st picot of the next row.

2nd row—On the 7 first chain stitches of the last row: 3 plain, 4 half-trebles, 3 trebles, 1 picot, 3 trebles, 1 picot, and so on, until in the semicircle over the picots, you have 7 times 7 chain stitches and 16 picots = on the ninth set of 7 chain: 3 trebles, 4 half trebles, 3 plain.

The scallops are joined by smaller ones, formed of: 3 plain, 4 half trebles, 3 trebles, 1 picot, 2 trebles, 7 chain, drop the loop, put the needle into the same treble of the last scallop; draw the loop through and make on the 7 chain: 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 5 trebles, 1 picot, 5 trebles, 1 half-treble, 1 plain; continue the large scallop, as described above.

The footing is composed of rings and trebles.—Begin with a ring, like those in the middle of the stars, worked as follows: 18 chain, with 28 plain upon them = miss 1 plain stitch of the ring, 3 plain, 10 chain = miss 1 plain, 3 plain, 10 chain = miss 1 plain, 3 plain, 5 chain, 1 single on the 7th picot of the 1st star, 5 chain = miss 1 plain, 3 plain, 5 chain, 1 single on the 8th picot, 5 chain = miss 1 plain, 3 plain, 5 chain, 1 single on the 2nd picot, 5 chain, finish off.

Straight edge—Worked from right to left = 1 chain * turn the thread 7 times round the needle, join to the plain stitch between the 7th and 6th picot, complete the long treble, 7 chain, join 1 treble, consisting of six overs to the 1st treble; 1 quintuple treble between the 6th and the 5th picot; 7 chain, 1 quadruple treble joined to the previous treble = in all, 10 trebles, the 1st made with 7 overs, the 2nd with 6, the 3rd with 5, the 4th with 4, the 5th and 6th with 3, the 7th with 4, the 8th with 5, the 9th with 6, the 10th with 7; and between every 2 trebles, 7 chain.

The 3 long trebles of the ring are taken up with 1 plain and 7 chain between.

Guipure lace (fig. 470).—We advise our readers to work this charming pattern, in unbleached Fil à dentelle D.M.C No 50, because it imitates the appearance of old lace better than any other material.

Lozenge-shaped figures in the centre—5 chain, close the ring.

1st row—5 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 treble on the ring = 5 chain, 1 treble on the ring = 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 treble on the ring = 5 chain on the 3rd of the first 5 chain.

2nd row—12 chain, * 1 treble on the 1st treble of the 1st row = 4 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the next 5 chain = 5 chain, 1 treble on the same stitch as the last treble = 4 chain, ** 1 treble on the 2nd treble of the 1st row, 9 chain. Repeat from * to **; join the last 4 chain, to the 3rd of the first 12 chain, by a single stitch.

3rd row—1 chain, 4 plain, 3 plain on the 5th of the 9 chain of the last row = 12 plain, 5 plain on the 3rd of the 5 chain, between the 2 trebles, 12 plain, 3 plain on the 5th of the lower 9 chain = 12 plain, 5 plain on the 3rd of the 5 chain, 7 plain; finish the row with a single stitch.

4th row—3 chain, 1 treble on each of the next 5 plain; 3 trebles on the 6th plain; 1 treble on each of the next 15 plain, 5 trebles on the 16th stitch; 15 trebles on the 2nd side; and again 3 trebles on the 16th stitch; 15 trebles on the 3rd side; 5 trebles on the 16th stitch, 9 trebles and join to the 3rd of the 3 chain.

5th row—1 chain, 6 plain, 3 plain on the 7th stitch beneath, * 18 plain, 3 plain on the 19th stitch. Repeat twice from *.

6th row—1 chain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 1 picot = towards the point: 3 plain, 1 picot = on the 2nd side of the square: 3 plain, 1 picot, and 5 times 2 plain, 1 picot = towards the point: 4 plain, 1 picot.

On the 3rd side as on the 2nd, only reversed, first 4 plain, and at the point 3 plain; on the 4th side as on the 2nd; on the 1st side must still be added 3 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain; draw the thread through the loop and fasten off.

The oblong squares, that connect the lozenges, take 7 rows of plain stitches. Make a chain of 14 = turn the work = 13 plain; add 5 rows of the same number of stitches. On the short side, and at the edge of the square: 1 picot, 3 plain, * 9 chain, miss 1 chain = returning: 1 plain on the 8th chain = on the next 7 chain: 1 half treble, 3 trebles, 1 half treble, 2 plain on the last chain stitches = on the 2nd half of the short side: 3 plain, 1 picot = on the long side: 3 plain **, 1 picot, 3 plain ***. Repeat the whole twice from * to ***, and then once from * to ** only.

The row of bars, that encircles the small leaves, begins with 2 single stitches on the first picot, then add: **** 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 treble on the 9th chain of the small leaf; on the short side: 1 chain, 1 picot, 1 chain, 1 triple treble on the 9th chain of the leaf; drop the thread, bring it out from the back, by the side of the picot that forms the corner on the long side of the lozenge = 1 chain, 1 picot, 1 chain, 1 treble on the small leaf = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 treble on the picot, forming the corner of the oblong square = 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 treble on the leaf on the long side of the square = 3 chain, 1 treble on the same stitch as the 1st treble is on = 3 chain, 1 treble on the same stitch as the 2 first trebles are on; 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 treble on the picot at the corner. Repeat once from ****.

Upper and lower edge—6 chain, 1 sextuple treble on the 2nd picot of the lozenge = 6 chain, 1 triple treble on the 4th picot of the lozenge. Coming back over the 2 trebles of 6 chain, work in 3 journeys to and fro, 13 plain stitches.

After the 2nd row of plain stitches, 1 quintuple treble on the 6th treble of the lozenge, and then 4 rows of plain stitches.

After the 6th row, pass at once to the leaves above the lozenge: ***** 15 chain, 1 plain on the picot that forms the point of the lozenge = turn the work to the wrong side = on the chain stitches work: ****** 3 plain, 1 half treble, 4 trebles, 1 half treble, 3 plain = turn the work to the right side = returning and starting from the point of the leaf: 1 chain and 1 plain on each of the lower stitches.

For the 2nd leaf: 12 chain = turn the work and repeat, as for the former leaf, from ***** to ******.

This leaf, being finished like the first, with this difference that it ends at the upper point, you pass to the 2nd little square: 6 chain, 1 sextuple treble on the picot next to the leaves; 3 chain, 1 triple treble on the 3rd picot, counted from the leaves = 6 chain, 1 sextuple treble on the 5th picot of the lozenge; keep the 2 last loops of the treble on the needle, 1 sextuple treble on the picot between every 3 chain of the small square with leaves; draw up the 2 last loops together with those already on the needle = 6 chain, 1 triple treble on the picot on the long side of the small square = 3 rows of 13 plain each.

With the last stitch of each of these rows, take 1 of the chain stitches between the long trebles.

After the 3rd row: 1 sextuple treble on the first treble on the small leaf of the small middle square = 3 rows of plain stitches to finish the square, and repeat from *****.

The upper row is similar to this but should be worked from right to left.

Scalloped edge.—In the right corner of the 1st oblong figure of the outside corner: 1 double treble, 2 chain, 1 double treble on the 4th plain stitch = 2 chain, 1 double treble on the stitch that forms the corner stitch of the square = 2 chain, 1 plain at the extremity of the first long leaf, 9 chain = 1 quadruple treble on the stitch between the 2 leaves = 2 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the same stitch and on the 1st treble = 2 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the same stitch = 9 chain, 1 plain on the last stitch of the 2nd long leaf = turn the work: 1 chain, 1 plain on each of the chain stitches, and on each treble, 27 plain stitches in all = turn the work: 1 chain, 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd plain; repeat the last 12 times. Take in 1 stitch on each side in every row, turn the work after each row, and at the end of the last fasten off. Fasten on at the foot of the scallop, not at the point, and work plain stitches all round it; 20 plain to the upper point, 40 in all.

The open-work edge of the scallops consists entirely of double trebles.—After the 40 plain stitches of the edge: 2 chain, 1 treble on the 1st plain stitch of the small square = turn the work: * 2 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd of the plain stitches, forming the edge of the scallop **; repeat 7 times from * to ** = *** 2 chain, 1 treble on the next plain stitch = 2 chain, 1 treble on the next plain = repeat 4 times from ***; and then 7 times from * to ** = 2 chain, 1 plain on the 4th treble of the square; 2 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd treble.

Work on, on the right side = **** 2 chain and 1 treble on the preceding treble as far as the 8th treble; after the 8th: ***** 10 chain, back to the 7th, and returning, join to the 7th treble = on the 10 chain: 16 plain, after the 16th draw the loop through the upper loop of the 8th treble = ****** 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 10 chain, return, and fasten the chain stitches to the last treble but one = 6 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain and join as before ******* = Repeat once from ***** to *******, then twice, from ***** to ******, then from **** to *****, as on the first side, only 1 treble less = then 1 treble on the 4th plain stitch of the small square, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 7th plain stitch of the square, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 10th plain stitch, 1 treble on the outside stitch, at the corner of the square, 2 chain, 1 plain on the last stitch of the leaf; 9 chain and so on, as above described.

Having reached the second scallop, on the 2nd row of trebles, at the sign ***, work: 2 chain, 1 treble to the left on the scallop just finished, keeping the last loops of the treble on the needle, 1 double treble to the right of the scallop and join it to the 2nd treble; draw the 4 loops together = 2 chain, 1 treble to the left, 1 quadruple treble to the right = 11 chain, drop the loop, bring it to the right side through the 4th treble of the right scallop = on these 11 chain stitches: 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 half treble, 1 plain, 1 single = 1 double treble on the open-work edge, then 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 12 chain; join to the 6th treble of the right scallop = working back: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, join to the treble, thrice 2 chain, 1 treble. Go back to ***** and repeat twice to *******.

The footing of the lace is worked in 5 rows from right to left.

1st row—1 single, * 1 double treble on the 6th plain stitch of the square = 1 chain, 1 double treble on the 2nd plain stitch of the square = 3 chain, 1 picot downwards, 3 chain, 1 plain on the stitch at the extremity of the long leaf = 3 chain, 1 picot downwards, 3 chain, 2 quadruple trebles between the two leaves = 3 chain, 1 picot downwards, 3 chain, 1 plain on the last stitch of the 2nd leaf, 3 chain; repeat from *.

2nd row—1 plain on each stitch of the previous row.

3rd row—count 2 stitches before and above the 2 trebles on the squares and make: * 1 treble, miss 1 stitch, 1 treble, miss 1 stitch, 1 treble, miss 1 stitch, 1 treble = turn the work: 1 plain on each of the 4 trebles = turn the work, come back and make 4 plain on the first 4 = 5 chain, miss 2 stitches of the 2nd row, 1 treble on the 3rd plain, and continue from *.

4th row—1 treble on each of the 4 plain, 1 chain between each treble, 2 chain and so on.

5th row—1 plain stitch on each of the stitches of the 4th row.

Crochet Reticella lace (fig. 471).—This pattern, copied in crochet from an old piece of Reticella lace, only looks well, worked in very fine cotton, as indicated in our illustration, namely, in unbleached Fil à dentelle D.M.C No 150. To make it resemble the original more closely, the method adopted in Venetian point, of making all the stitches over a padding thread, has, in the case of the outside edge, been followed here.

At the end of each row of plain stitches, draw out a sufficiently long loop to lay it back over the stitches just made, and to work the next row of stitches over this double foundation. These loops must be long enough, not to pucker or tighten the scallops.

For the inner squares = 4 chain, close the ring.

1st row—8 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 double treble, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 double treble, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 double treble, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 single stitch on the 5th of the 8 chain.

2nd row—* 1 chain, 5 plain on the first 3 chain, 5 plain on the next 3 chain. On these 10 plain stitches, working to and fro, 9 rows of plain stitches, decreasing by 1 in each row; after the last stitch, come back along the side of the little triangle, and make 1 single stitch in every row, 1 plain on the treble of the 1st row **; repeat 3 times from * to **.

These small triangles must be worked over 1 single treble and between 2 double trebles.

When the 4th triangle is finished,